Philip Luu took on the role of Head Pattern Cutter for Evie Stocker, a Central Saint Martins graduate renowned for her innovative latex designs. Collaborating closely with Evie, he translated her avant-garde concepts into precise patterns and meticulously crafted prototypes. Philip's expertise was instrumental in developing new techniques for working with latex, ensuring impeccable fit and finish for the specialised machinists.

A key challenge was seamlessly integrating traditional garment construction methods, such as corsetry, tailoring, draping, and pleating, into the unconventional medium of latex. Through extensive experimentation and innovative problem-solving, Philip successfully overcame these obstacles. The brand's playful aesthetic, which challenged conventional fashion norms, required a fresh approach to pattern cutting and garment construction.

Unfortunately, the development of a second collection was cut short when Evie Stocker accepted a design position at Vivienne Westwood.
Eviestocker

Phoebe Grace is a testament to the power of family, creativity, and personal experience. Founded by a mother-daughter duo, the brand's unique aesthetic was deeply rooted in their shared journey. The print designs was unique to the brand, especially the heart print collection holds particular significance, inspired by Janet's personal experience with heart surgery. This design served as a symbol of resilience, gratitude, and the enduring power of love. Philip's role as the sole pattern cutter and sample machinist was pivotal in bringing Janet's designs to life. The collaboration presented a unique challenge: translating a designer with no formal experience into tangible garments. This process fostered a deep understanding between the two, as Philip learned to interpret Janet's vision and translate it into the realm of fashion. Over the course of their partnership, Phoebe Grace developed a distinctive style, characterised by innovative silhouettes and intricate print designs. Each new collection was a testament to the duo's creativity and their ability to evolve with the changing fashion landscape. While the brand may have concluded, the legacy of Phoebe Grace lives on. The collaboration between mother and daughter, the personal stories woven into the designs, and the enduring power of creativity continue to inspire.
phoebe-grace.co.uk

Philip forged a collaborative partnership with the founders of Paynter Jacket Co. during the brand's formative stages. His initial contribution involved developing the pattern for their signature jacket, which led to subsequent opportunities, including designing their first women's chore jacket.

This successful collaboration has evolved into an ongoing partnership, working on different garments including shirt, a Japanese Kimono, a reversible liner jacket and more. Philip's expertise has also supported in refining existing archive jackets for enhanced fit and functionality.
paynter.co.uk

Wenhan Xu's final major project was a captivating exploration of human existence in the context of nature, drawing inspiration from the thought-provoking work of Takashi Kuribuyashi. Kuribuyashi's "Tree" 2015 installation, in particular, resonated with Xu, as it posed questions about the future of life on Earth and the delicate interplay between humans and the natural world.
Under the guidance of Philip and Saskia, Xu's design concepts underwent a rigorous process of questioning and refinement. Philip's expertise in garment construction, detailing, and finishing ensured that the collection met the highest professional standards. This collaborative approach helped Xu to develop a cohesive and impactful collection.
Wenhan Xu's six-look collection was a testament to his talent and dedication. The collection's successful inclusion in the Kingston School of Art Press Show 2023 showcased his ability to translate a profound concept into a visually stunning and thought-provoking body of work.

Philip Luu’s graduate collection, showcased at the University of Westminster, garnered significant attention. Featured in I-D/Vice's "ten London fashion graduates to watch," the collection also graced the pages of Hunger Magazine and other publications.

Inspired by a British photographer's early 20th-century exploration of China, Luu blended Victorian aesthetics with Chinese cultural elements. This unique fusion informed his exploration of silhouette, fabric, and construction techniques. The result was a modern collection that reflected his personal heritage as a British-born Chinese designer with a deep appreciation for British tailoring and Chinese cultural richness.

Inspired by Juliette’s personal experiences in athletics and gymnastics, the collection prioritises functionality, agility, and comfort, transcending aesthetic considerations to respond to the human body in motion. In addition to high-intensity sports, an upcoming expedition to Mount Everest Base Camp has broadened the design perspective to encompass diverse environments and exertion levels.

Her rigorous design process involving extensive sampling and informed decision-making has resulted in a highly refined collection. Technical fabrics, trims, and fastenings have been carefully selected to create precise and performance-oriented garments. This includes a series of bags and base layers developed in response to research and personal experience. A commitment to sustainability is evident in the use of deadstock, end-of-roll, and garment offcuts for accessories. Specialist fabrics such as Merino wool, technical nylon, and ripstop form the foundation of the collection.